The long face: A dot of blusher on the chin will help shorten the face. When
it comes to the cheekbones, place the brush in a horizontal bar directly
across the top of the cheekbones. Blend.
THE DIAMOND SHAPED FACE:
Place blusher in a small circle on the top of the cheekbones & blend to the
outside of the face.
ROUND FACE:
Blusher should be applied in small triangle with the apex towards the
eyes.
SQUARE FACE:
The triangles of the blusher should have the apex towards the nose & should
be blended all the way to the outside of the face.
EYES WIDE OPEN:
Widen your eyes: Eyes that have too much lid showing need to be colored
with shadow ( or kohl, if you want to go dramatic) across the entire lid,
right up to the crease below the brow bone. Take a smudgy kohl pencil &
blend a line halfway across the lower lash line too.
GIVE CLOSE SET LINE SOME SPACE:
Color half the upper lid in a triangular shape with the apex of the triangle
at the outer corner. Draw a line halfway across the lower lash line & blend
well.
OPEN YOUR EYES:
Always use eye makeup in a shade darker than the color of your eyes. Stay
away from the frosted colors. Keep brows thin. Eyes with a heavy bone
structure need a lighter shadow on the lid, with a dark line drawn in the
crease, & blended well.
LESSEN
THE BULGE:
If your eyes tend to bulge, color the upper lid all the way up to the
crease. Line bottom lash line with a dark kohl.
DEFINE DEEP SET EYES:
Apply light frosted color from the lash line all the way to the brow but
keep within the bone structure of the eye socket.
FLAT EYES:
Use two or three levels of the shadow across the lid and extend in a bar at
the outer tip of the lid .
THE OVER CHANGING BROW:
This can be lifted by applying shadow from the inside corner of the eye over
the top lid around to the outer corner & bottom lid. Blend well for the soft
look.
DARK CIRCLES:
Dot a concealer halfway down from the inner eye area, which is the darkest
part. Blend well with a very light dusting of pressed powder.
To slim the shape of your nose: dot a small triangle of blusher above the
nostrils, with the apex away from the bridge of the nose. Blend carefully.
Add the final touch with a slim line of highlighter or slimmer down the
bridge of the nose.
TO SHORTEN A LONG NOSE:
Put just a dab of blusher under the tip of the nose & blend. Highlight the
bridge.
GIVE YOURSELF CHEEKBONES:
Draw elongated triangles just below the cheekbones, with the apex pointing
towards your jaw. Blend. Now highlight the top of the cheekbones. Blush
should always be kept towards the outside of the face than just below the
middle of the eye. The cheek can be hollowed by shading the outside plane of
the jaw line. Color should come no closer to the middle of the face than the
outside corner of the eye.
BALANCE YOUR LIPS:
For too full lips, outline the lipid's bow of the top lip. than fill in the
centre of both lips with a darker lip pencil. Blend, than apply your normal
shade of lipstick. Always match the tip of the cupid's bow of the mouth with
the nostrils - this brings the nose & mouth into harmony.
GIVE SHAPE TO UNEVEN LIPS:
Use a brighter color on the smaller lip
for a fuller appearance. If your upper lip is narrow. paint a line
with a lip pencil just over the top lip edge, than use two lippers ; a dark shade for the upper lip & a lighter one
for the lower lip.
A TOO WIDE MOUTH:
Don't take lip color all the way to the corner of the mouth.
THE SCULPTED JAW:
TO SLIM A HEAVY JAW LINE: apply blusher in a wedge just above the edge of
your jaw line, than blend. A RECEDING CHIN: can be corrected visually by dabbing blush or blusher on
the centre of the chin & blending. Remember to play down eye make up ;
strong eyes generally throw a weak chin into relief.