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The long face: A dot of blusher on the chin will help shorten the face. When it comes to the cheekbones, place the brush in a horizontal bar directly across the top of the cheekbones. Blend.

 

THE DIAMOND SHAPED FACE:

Place blusher in a small circle on the top of the cheekbones & blend to the outside of the face.

ROUND FACE:

Blusher should be applied in small triangle with the apex towards the eyes.

SQUARE FACE:


The triangles of the blusher should have the apex towards the nose & should be blended all the way to the outside of the face.

 

 EYES WIDE OPEN:


Widen your eyes: Eyes that have too much lid showing need to be colored with shadow ( or kohl, if you want to go dramatic) across the entire lid, right up to the crease below the brow bone. Take a smudgy kohl pencil & blend a line halfway across the lower lash line too.

 

GIVE CLOSE SET LINE SOME SPACE:


Color half the upper lid in a triangular shape with the apex of the triangle at the outer corner. Draw a line halfway across the lower lash line & blend well.

 

OPEN YOUR EYES:

Always use eye makeup in a shade darker than the color of your eyes. Stay away from the frosted colors. Keep brows thin. Eyes with a heavy bone structure need a lighter shadow on the lid, with a dark line drawn in the crease, & blended well.

 LESSEN THE BULGE:

If your eyes tend to bulge, color the upper lid all the way up to the crease. Line bottom lash line with a dark kohl.

DEFINE DEEP SET EYES:

Apply light frosted color from the lash line all the way to the brow but keep within the bone structure of the eye socket.

 FLAT EYES:


Use two or three levels of the shadow across the lid and extend in a bar at the outer tip of the lid .

 

THE OVER CHANGING BROW:


This can be lifted by applying shadow from the inside corner of the eye over the top lid around to the outer corner & bottom lid. Blend well for the soft look.

 

DARK CIRCLES:

Dot a concealer halfway down from the inner eye area, which is the darkest part. Blend well with a very light dusting of pressed powder.

 SLEEPY EYES:

Wake up sleepy orbs with navy kohl & mascara.

 

THE AQUILINE NOSE:
To slim the shape of your nose: dot a small triangle of blusher above the nostrils, with the apex away from the bridge of the nose. Blend carefully. Add the final touch with a slim line of highlighter or slimmer down the bridge of the nose.

TO SHORTEN A LONG NOSE:

Put just a dab of blusher under the tip of the nose & blend. Highlight the bridge.

GIVE YOURSELF CHEEKBONES:


Draw elongated triangles just below the cheekbones, with the apex pointing towards your jaw. Blend. Now highlight the top of the cheekbones. Blush should always be kept towards the outside of the face than just below the middle of the eye. The cheek can be hollowed by shading the outside plane of the jaw line. Color should come no closer to the middle of the face than the outside corner of the eye.

 

 BALANCE YOUR LIPS:

For too full lips, outline the lipid's  bow of the top lip. than fill in the centre of  both lips with a darker lip pencil. Blend, than apply your normal shade of lipstick. Always match the tip of the cupid's bow of the mouth with the nostrils - this brings the nose & mouth into harmony.

GIVE SHAPE TO UNEVEN LIPS:
Use a brighter color on the smaller lip for a fuller appearance. If your upper lip is narrow. paint a line with a lip pencil just over the top lip edge, than use two lippers ; a dark shade for the upper lip & a lighter one for the lower lip.

A TOO WIDE MOUTH:

Don't take lip color all the way to the corner of the mouth.

THE SCULPTED JAW:

TO SLIM A HEAVY JAW LINE:  apply blusher in a wedge just above the edge of your jaw line, than blend.
A RECEDING CHIN: can be corrected visually by dabbing blush or blusher on the centre of the chin & blending. Remember to play down eye make up ; strong eyes generally throw a weak chin into relief.

 aarti@basicsofbeauty.com